Vansh Tiwari in Spiti Valley

I Stayed in Spiti Valley for 20 Days — Here’s Everything I Did

Last updated on June 11th, 2026 at 05:07 am

Reading Time: 11 minutes

Going to Spiti Valley and staying longer was a planned decision.

I had just finished my Diploma in Travel Photography and Filmmaking, and I needed to build a portfolio.

I went to Spiti in August solo and had stayed for 20 days there.

This is everything I did in Spiti Valley— the journey, the places I went, the festival covered, the astrophotography, and the postcard that never arrived.

Getting to Kaza — The 45-Hour Journey from Delhi

There’s no shortcut to Spiti. The journey from Delhi to Kaza is long, broken into multiple legs, and tests your patience before the valley has even had a chance to impress you.

Here’s how mine went.

Delhi to Shimla

I took an overnight Volvo bus from Delhi. Sleep didn’t come — it rarely does on overnight buses — but by morning I was at ISBT Tutikandi in Shimla.

I missed the direct Shimla to Reckong Peo bus by a few minutes. So I bought something to eat from the bus stand and took the next available bus to Rampur instead.

Shimla to Rampur

The bus continued for 5 hrs. It was tiring, but the scenery starts getting interesting around this stretch. By the time the bus reached Rampur, I was genuinely hungry. Whatever I had packed wasn’t enough. I ate at the bus stand and immediately caught the next bus to Reckong Peo.

Rampur to Reckong Peo

In took an another bus. In next few hours I reached Reckong Peo in the evening and stayed there for a night. This is the district headquarters of Kinnaur and the main transit hub for everything further — Kalpa, Chitkul, Sangla, and Kaza all connect from here.

If you’re planning this route, give yourself a night in Reckong Peo. Don’t try to push through in one go.

Reckong Peo to Kaza

The next morning I was at the Kaza bus stand early. Till my turn came, the ticket was sold out.

I waited another 3 hours for the next bus, stood at the front of the queue before it got longer, and got the last row seat. I felt relieved to get a seat and didn’t cared about where.

Reaching Kaza

I spent the bus journey trying to observe the landscape — the dry mountains, the in-between villages, the Spiti river running alongside the road. By the time I reached Kaza, it was evening.

After just arriving in Kaza

Total time taken from Delhi to Kaza, approximately 45 hours.

Where I Stayed in Kaza

I checked into Zostel Kaza for the first 8 days without knowing exactly how long I’d stay. I extended and there itself for the entire journey.

Zostel is a good base. The common areas put you around other travellers, the staff know the Spiti valley well, and the backyard looks straight out at open fields with mountains on every side.

I rented a scooty almost immediately. Local buses in Spiti run in the evening and won’t get you to the places you want at the times you want to be there. A scooty gives you the flexibility to be at a spot at 6 AM if you want to, or to stay until the light disappears.

My approach for the whole trip was to visit fewer places, go back to the same spots multiple times at different hours. I went to some spots 3 or 4 times across different days. It’s the only way to actually photograph a place rather than just document that you were there.

Rangrik— Milky Way and a Night I Won’t Forget

Star Trails shot at Spiti
Star Trails shot in Rangrik

The visit to Rangrik was memorable because I saw the Perseid Meteor Shower and did Astrophotography.

Through this process, I was only worried about going back to Kaza from Rangrik at Night.

Kaza to Rangrik distance is around 5 km, which was doable. Still it was an unknown location and I didn’t felt like going at night.

Meanwhile, searching online I got to know that Astro camp was happening at Rangrik. I reached out to the members for the camp, they were staying at a guest house—I stayed with them for that night.

The night, I shot the Milky Way and star trails until around 3 AM, then went in to sleep. One of the camp members was still outside shooting when I came in. That was the energy to capture in the night.

The next morning I rode back to Kaza.

That was one of the clearest night skies I’ve ever photographed under.

Getting there from Kaza

Rangrik is about 5km from Kaza. There are buses, but not regularly. The quickest and easiest way is by a scooty or bike.

Where to stay

There’s no formal guesthouse in Rangrik. The astrophotography camp arrangement I mentioned worked because I connected with the person beforehand. If you’re planning a night shoot here, coordinate with a local in Kaza or check if any camps are running during your visit.

Things to do

  • Rangrik is almost entirely a photography destination.
  • The open landscape, zero light pollution, and clear high-altitude skies make it one of the best spots in Spiti for Milky Way and star trail photography.
  • The Perseid Meteor Shower (August) makes it even more worthwhile.

Key Monastery—Visited thrice

I visited Key Monastery 3 times, and each visit gave me something different.

The first time I went on a Sunday. The monks were playing football, volleyball and cricket. They get weekends and national holidays to play, and watching them play is one of those sights to photograph.

Children's at Key Monastery Spiti
Monks playing at Key Monastery

The second visit was for the morning prayer. The prayer begins early in the morning. I’d recommend sitting through it regardless of whether you’re religious or not.

The third visit was purely for photography — going at a different time of day to see how the monastery looked under different conditions.

Getting there from Kaza

Key Monastery is 14km from Kaza. A shared taxi from Kaza costs around Rs. 100-200 per person. If you have a scooty, the drive takes about 30 minutes with good views throughout.

Where to stay

There are a few basic guesthouses near Key Monastery. Staying at key Monastery overnight gives you access to the early morning prayer without the rush of coming from Kaza. The monastery itself has stay options, that you need to ask by visiting.

Things to do

  • The best thing is to attend the morning prayer at the monastery. It starts around 6 AM and is open to visitors.
  • If you visit on a weekend or national holiday, you’ll find the monks playing in the grounds—you can play with them.
  • The views from the monastery roof are among the best in the valley.

Kibber— An Empty Village

Kibber Village
Kibber Village

The Kibber village lies beyond Key, higher up, and the drive gets narrower and more exposed as you go. I’ll be honest — the height made me nervous on the scooty.

When I reached Kibber, I couldn’t spot anyone outside the houses. Not a single person visible in the entire village. I waited for a while, walked around, and clicked landscapes instead. The views are unmatched.

Getting there from Kaza 

Kibber is about 18km from Kaza, just beyond Key Monastery. Buses are there, but not regular. A shared taxi from Kaza costs around Rs. 200 to Rs. 300 per person. Most people combine Kibber and Key in one day trip.

Where to stay

Kibber has a few basic homestays run by local families. Staying overnight here is quieter than Kaza, the village is small and genuinely off the tourist trail. Snow Leopard Homestay is one name that comes up regularly among travellers.

Things to do

  • Kibber is a base for the snow leopard in winter.
  • In summer, the Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary nearby is worth exploring, it covers a large stretch of cold desert habitat.
  • A walk around the village is the best thing you can do in Kibber.

Langza

My time in Langza was short, for an hour.

I went to Langza to pick up a friend which I met in Zostel Kaza. And from there we’ve planned to go further to Komic and Hikkim.

Entering the Langza village, I came across cattle gatherings and herders moving them along. It was equally quieter as Kibber but less dramatic altitude, more of a typical Himachal village.

Meanwhile waiting for a friend, I found a black and white landscape worth shooting. The clouds that day made the composition work in a way the colour version wouldn’t have.

Black and White Landscape Langza Spiti

Langza is also recommended for astrophotography. If you’re planning a night shoot, it’s worth considering alongside Rangrik.

Getting there from Kaza 

Langza is about 15km from Kaza. Buses leave from Kaza. Quick way is to hire a scooty or join a shared taxi. Most visitors combine Langza, Komic, and Hikkim in one long day.

Where to stay 

A handful of homestays operate in the village. Langza is small and accommodation is limited, book ahead in peak season (July to August). Staying overnight is worth it if astrophotography is your plan, since the skies here are consistently clear and dark.

Things to do

  • The giant Buddha statue at the edge of the village with mountains behind it is the most photographed spot.
  • The village walk through the fields and stone houses is quiet and wonderful.

Komic—World’s Highest Motorable Road

Komic Monastery

The drive to Komic is picturesque and almost entirely empty. I didn’t pass another vehicle the whole way.

Komic sits higher than everything else in the area. It holds the name of being the world’s highest motorable village. The cold up there is a different kind of cold even compared to the rest of Spiti. The wind is constant.

There’s a small monastery in Komic worth visiting. The views from the village stretch out in all directions.

Getting there from Kaza

Komic is about 24km from Kaza, beyond Langza. The buses which goes till Langza also comes here.

Where to stay

Komic has very limited options, a couple of basic homestays in the village. Don’t expect much beyond a bed and simple meals. The Tangyud Monastery guesthouse sometimes accommodates travellers worth asking when you arrive.

Things to do

  • Visit the Tangyud Monastery, one of the older monasteries in Spiti. The elevation here (around 15,000 feet) means the cold is constant.
  • The landscape around Komic is barren and wide, good for wide-angle photography in the golden hour.

Hikkim

Rinchen Cherring Postmaster Hikkim Spiti
Rinchen Cherring – Postmaster at the world’s highest post office

I went to Hikkim from Komic, taking the off-road stretch that connects the two. There’s no signboard— I had to open Google Maps to figure it out.

When I reached the Hikkim Post Office — the highest post office in the world at 14,567 feet, it looked closed at first. Then I noticed Rinchen Cherring, the postmaster, sitting inside. He saw me through the window and came to open the gate.

I sent postcards to my friends and one to myself, Rs. 36 per stamp. I messaged everyone excitedly that a postcard from the world’s highest post office was on its way.

But, it didn’t arrived after months later.

Getting there from Kaza

Hikkim is about 24km from Kaza. Most people go via Langza and Komic, making it the last stop on a long day trip. The final stretch from Komic to Hikkim is off-road — not signposted, so use Google Maps. The road is manageable on a scooty but take it slow.

Where to stay

I recommend staying in Langza or Komic if you want to be in that area overnight.

Things to do

  • Visit the highest post office in the world. Send a postcard.
  • Views from Hikkim are expansive. It’s a good photography spot in the late afternoon when the light hits the surrounding slopes.
  • Worth a short walk through before heading back.

Spiti La-Darcha Festival

La Darcha Fair Spiti - Monks arriving

The only thing I had been waiting for a long time was the La-Darcha Fair—I need to cover the travel story, so I was excited.

It’s a 3-day festival, a big occasion for the Spiti people.

Food stalls, cultural performances, competitions, exhibitions, rides for children. The whole valley comes together in a way you don’t see on an ordinary day.

La-Darcha Festival Spiti
La Darch Fair

I covered the La-Darcha Fair, and the energy was outstanding.

Last-Few Days in Kaza

I spent the last few days in Kaza photographing moonlit landscapes as the full moon day approached.

I was scared to venture out alone at a non-familiar location at night.

For the first day, I went to Zostel’s backyard. The area is entirely of fields.

The next day, I went with the Scooty rental owner. He was the only one I’ve talked enough to take to a distant place for Night photography.

I have also created a reel showcasing Spiti.

What I Missed — and Why That Was Intentional

I stayed in Spiti Valley for 20 days and didn’t visited the Pin Valley.

I made a conscious choice early in the trip to limit my destinations and go deep into fewer places. If you try to see everything in Spiti, you end up seeing nothing properly.

Pin Valley will be there the next time.

It was my first trip of that length, anywhere. Everything worked the way I wanted it to. And I still have reasons to go back.

How Long Should You Stay in Spiti Valley?

Most people go for 7 to 10 days. That’s enough to cover the main spots — Key Monastery, Kibber, Langza, Komic, Hikkim and Pin Valley.

If photography/videography is your primary purpose, plan for at least 14 days. Spiti’s light changes significantly across different times of day and across days.

FAQ

  • What is the best time to visit Spiti Valley? June to September for road access via both the Shimla and Manali routes. July is the peak season.
  • How do I reach Kaza from Delhi? By road via Shimla and Reckong Peo, approximately 45 hours by bus. The Manali route is an alternative entry point, also around 14 to 15 hours from Manali.
  • Is a scooty enough to explore Spiti Valley? Scooty is enough to explore around Kaza, Key, Kibber, Langza, Komic, and Hikkim. For longer stretches like Pin Valley, consider a motorbike, roads can be rough on narrow stretches.
  • Is Spiti Valley safe for solo travel? Yes, the locals are helpful and the valley is relatively low on crime. The risks are altitude-related, acclimatize properly before doing long drives or hikes. Always carry enough fuel, water, and a basic first aid kit on longer routes.

Summing-Up

I stayed in Spiti for 20 days and covered these places and one festival. There are plenty of places left—Pin Valley is amongst the one. I was not lazy to explore but restricted myself from covering everything. Because you always need a reason to return.

That was the first time I visited a place for that many days, and everything worked according to the plan.

Share your thoughts with me. Happy to connect.

I’ve also made a video on my journey. You can watch it below.

Show 8 Comments

8 Comments

  1. Abhijeet Pradhan

    Superb. I had posted 2 post cards to Pune from Hikkim, one was received after 5-6 weeks and second didn’t come at all.

    • Hey Abhijeet, thank you for sharing your experience with me. Unfortunately, my friends and I hadn’t received any postcards from Hikkim after 3 months, even though I had re-checked all the details.

  2. Prerna Aditi

    The experiences and pictures that you’ve shared, makes me wanna visit these places. It’s good that you visited some places at different times on different days. I am sure each time would have given unique experiences to you.

    • Hey Prerna, thank you for sharing your thoughts with me. Indeed, it was an exquisite experience, and I adore those days spent in Spiti. There was a reason behind going to a place at different times and days; ultimately, I didn’t want to miss the chance to capture the fascinating beauty!

    • Hey, yeah, but that was a deliberate miss! 😅 I need to come again.

  3. Ravi Aparanji

    I liked your blog, the long venture and beautiful captures of the landscapes of Spiti. I guess many of them are on a wide angle lens…
    I was on a Spiti tour in early June this year in a group, and had some fantastic photographs especially around Kaza, Langza, Tabo. And like you, I too went to the world’s highest post office, posted a postcard to my wife in Bangalore. It is almost December now, and the postcard seems to have gone to Paraguay 😂😂

    Keep up the beautiful photography work. Its so filling, heartwarming and makes us photographers love the nature and get lost in it ❤️💫

    • Hey Ravi, thank you for sharing your beautiful experience with me. Yes, most photographs are shot using a wide-angle lens. And, Indeed, the postcard didn’t arrive, which I was expecting would arrive in about 20 days max. Thank you once again for appreciating the photographs, and reading the blog!

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